Let Your Cat Keep All His Toes!

There are few feline issues that are as controversial as declawing.

Declawing is not a simple or routine surgery. It is the amputation of the ends of at least ten toes—severing nerves and blood vessels and bone. It should never be done as a “preventative,” especially in kittens. Despite their reputation for independence, cats can readily be trained to leave the sofa, curtains, or carpet untouched.

What is declawing?

Declawing (more accurately described as “de-toeing” when the same procedure is done to chickens), is the amputation of each front toe at the first joint. The procedure is so excruciatingly painful that it was once used as a technique of torture. Physical recovery takes a few weeks, but even after the surgical wounds have healed, there are other long-term physical and psychological effects.

Why do people declaw their cats?

• To protect furniture or other property
• They don’t want to try to train the cat
• Their friend’s or family’s cat is declawed
• Their veterinarian recommends it
• Because they just do not know any better

Many people have discovered—too late—that declawing frequently leads to far worse problems than it solves. There is no way to know ahead of time into which category your cat might fall! There are better ways to solve behavior problems than radical and irreversible surgery.

Claws are important to a cat’s well-being!

Claws perform a number of vital functions for the cat. By scratching various surfaces, cats create a visual and scent identification mark for their territory. Claws provide psychological comfort through kneading, help the cat climb to safety or a secure vantage point, and help the cat fully stretch his back and legs. A declawed cat never again experiences the head-to-toe satisfaction of a full body stretch!

There are many possible complications of declawing

Post-surgical complications- Abscesses and claw regrowth can occur a few weeks to many years after surgery. Chronic or intermittent lameness may develop. In one study that followed cats for only 5 months after surgery, nearly 1/3 of cats developed complications from both declaw and tendonectomy (another destructive surgery sometimes offered as an “alternative” to declawing) surgeries.

Pain- Cats can’t tell us how it feels to have the ends of their toes amputated. However, we can compare similar procedures in people. Nearly all human amputees report “phantom” sensations from the amputated part, ranging from merely strange to extremely painful (about 40% of such sensations are categorized as painful). Because declawing involves at least ten separate amputations, it is virtually certain that all declawed cats experience phantom pain. In humans, these sensations continue for life. There is no physiological reason that this would not be true for cats.

Cats are stoic creatures, and typically conceal pain or illness until it becomes overwhelming. Cats may learn to live with chronic pain, and their behavior may appear “normal,” but this does not mean that they are pain-free.

Joint Stiffness - In declawed cats, the tendons that control the toe joints retract after surgery, and become essentially “frozen.” The toes remain fully contracted for the life of the cat. Most cats continue to make scratching motions after they are declawed, and this is often said to “prove” that they do not “miss” their claws. This behavior is more realistically explained as desperate but ineffective efforts to stretch those stiff toes, legs, shoulders, and backs.

Arthritis - In the immediate post-operative period, newly declawed cats shift their body weight backward onto the large central pads of the feet, and off the sore toes. If this altered gait persists over time, it causes stress on the leg joints and spine, and could lead to damage and arthritic changes in multiple joints. A recent study showed that arthritis of the elbow is very common in older cats. The researchers did not ask or record whether the cats were declawed. We’d like to know.

Litterbox Problems - Declawed cats have more litterbox problems than clawed cats. In one survey, 95% of calls about declawed cats related to litterbox problems, while only 46% of clawed cats had such problems. Some households with declawed cats have spent thousands of dollars replacing drywall, carpets, and subfloors to repair urine damage.

Biting - Some experts believe that cats who are declawed are likely to become biters. Many declawed cats do seem to “notice” that their claws are missing, and turn to biting as a primary means of defense.

Change in Personality - “My cat has never been the same.” A friendly, delightful kitten may become a morose, fearful, or reclusive cat, never to recover its natural joy, grace, and love of exploration.

Death - -If a declawed cat that develops a behavior problem is taken to a shelter, he will not be considered adoptable, and he will promptly be euthanized (killed). Cats exiled to the outdoors are commonly stolen and used as defenseless live bait to be torn apart by fighting dogs, or sold to laboratories or biological suppliers. It’s an ugly reality that a tame, friendly, declawed cat makes an ideal experimental subject.

Veterinary behaviorists agree that declawing should be a last resort

Many veterinarians in the U.S. have become accustomed to performing the declawing procedure without thinking about—or even recognizing—the common complications. Some even recommend declawing kittens at the same time they are spayed or neutered, whether or not they have developed destructive scratching habits. However, this goes against the express written policy of the American Veterinary Medical Association. All the top veterinary behaviorists agree that declawing should not even be considered until all other options, such as training or deterrents, have been sincerely tried and failed.

Stop unwanted scratching behavior without declawing!

Provide an appropriate place to scratch

Cats of any age can be trained not to scratch furniture or other objects—including people - although it is easier if the cat is trained as a kitten. Because scratching is a deeply ingrained instinct in cats, if there is no appropriate spot, they will substitute furniture or other objects. Watch where your kitten or cat likes to scratch. Does she go for a long belly-stretch on the carpet, or does she prefer vertical surfaces like the arm of the sofa or the back of a chair? Try to imitate her favorite spots with acceptable scratching options.

A vertical scratching post should be at least 28-36” high to allow the cat to stretch to his full height. Many cats prefer natural soft wood, such as a section of bark-covered log or a cedar or redwood plank, or posts covered with sisal rope (more popular than the carpeted surfaces of many posts). The post must be very sturdy and stable; if it wobbles, your cat is unlikely to use it.

Rubbing the surface with catnip, or using a catnip concentrate spray, may enhance the attractiveness of the post. For the more adventurous types, there is a great variety of cat trees, with features such as hidey-holes, dangling toys, and other creative amenities. Don’t be too quick to discard a shabby, well-worn post—that’s when it’s the most attractive to your cat!

You can protect your furniture with clear sticky strips, and other deterrents, and smaller cat-attractive scratching posts, mats, and distractions that will protect your possessions. Some cats like to scratch on a horizontal surface; inexpensive cardboard scratchers are popular with these cats. Replace these periodically so they provide adequate resistance to the claws.

With scratching posts, as in real estate, think “location, location, location.” Start with the post near kitty’s favorite scratching object and gradually (by inches) move it to its final destination.

Make the unacceptable object undesirable

This may be as simple as throwing on a slip cover, or draping a thick towel, over the arm of the sofa. What kitty likes about tight upholstery fabric is its resistance—this is what allows him to stretch. If he hooks his claws into material that gives, or immediately pulls off and falls on his head, he’ll lose interest in no time.

Another simple plan is to use double-sided tape, such as "Sticky Paws." This product has an adhesive that does not damage furniture, but feels disgusting to the cat’s sensitive paw pads. One or two experiences are enough to discourage many cats permanently.

Don’t play with your cat using your hands and his paws!

It’s best to never play or roughhouse with your kitten or cat using your bare hands (or even covered-up hands!). You don’t want her to get the idea that biting or scratching human skin is okay. It’s fun to watch the kitten attack your wiggling toes under a blanket, but when he’s 15 pounds with razor-sharp, inch-long fangs, it’s not nearly as amusing. Serious aggression problems require assistance from your veterinarian, or your friendly behavior consultants at Little Big Cat!

Conscientious nail-trimming keeps the claws blunt and minimizes the damage that a cat can do to fabrics, furniture, and fingers.

Padding for the Paws

If you can’t convince your cat to cease attacking the furniture, replaceable soft plastic caps for the claws called “Soft Paws“ are a good solution. These caps are glued onto the nail. They’ll come off by themselves after a few weeks and need replacing. They come in fun colors and really do the trick. A vet or groomer can apply them, but you can learn to replace them at home.

Last but not least ...

Most people truly love their feline companions and want to do what’s best for all concerned. Please think carefully about the beautiful little animal who trusts you and relies on you for her very existence. Make the humane choice—and don’t declaw.

We are not veterinarians. The content of this article is for information only. We strongly suggest that you find a veterinarian who is well-informed about whole food diets to help you with your animals.

© Steve Brown and Beth Taylor
See Spot Live Longer
www.seespotlivelonger.com
This article may be reproduced for educational purposes with the above credits included